Patent application trends in the cosmetics industry in 2024

The cosmetics industry is a dynamic one that is constantly evolving, responding to the changing needs and preferences of consumers while taking advantage of the latest technologies and protecting the environment. Growing consumer awareness of health and environmental issues is driving cosmetic companies to develop products with natural and organic ingredients, as well as products that are free of microplastics, artificial dyes and chemicals. Awareness about animal testing and the origin of animal-derived ingredients is also growing, which is why cosmetic companies are increasingly offering vegan products and no longer testing their products on animals (cruelty-free cosmetics). In addition, many companies have begun to offer more and more personalized product options that take into account the individual needs and preferences of consumers, especially in terms of ingredients, fragrance or formulation. In addition, in order to reduce the negative impact on the environment, cosmetic companies have begun to invest in the research and development of new green packaging and use more environmentally friendly packaging, including packaging based on recycled materials.

The latest trends in the development of cosmetics industry technologies can be seen in the large number of invention applications in this field, which have successfully replaced traditional cosmetics. A search of patent literature related to cosmetics shows that in the past 3 years, there were 21,355 patent families covering 33,685 invention applications in this field (according to Minesoft®'s PatBase® database). The countries with the largest number of such invention patent applications are China, South Korea, the United States and Japan. Most patent applicants actively submit international applications, involving as many as 157 countries and regions. Leading companies here include Guangdong University of Technology, Shiseido, LG, L'Oréal and Procter & Gamble.

Analyzing patent trends geographically shows that China is the world leader. The number of invention patent applications in Europe is ranked first by Germany (366), France (185) and Spain (155), and the total number of patent applications in these countries is several times less than that of China.

It can also be seen from patent applications that the trend of reducing the impact of cosmetics on the environment is an obvious trend. Natural ingredients such as plant extracts, essential oils, seaweed, etc., which are less toxic to the environment and healthier for the human body, are increasingly used in the production of cosmetics. Cosmetics with natural ingredients are also becoming more and more popular with consumers. The natural ingredients of more environmentally friendly and skin-friendly products come from plants, minerals and other natural sources. They are gentler and more effective, with only a lower risk of allergies and irritation. Plant cosmetics are more attractive because they are less likely to cause allergic reactions or irritation than products containing artificial ingredients such as parabens, phthalates or artificial dyes. Plant cosmetics usually contain only plant ingredients such as oils and plant extracts, herbal and flower extracts, vitamins and minerals. In addition, companies use raw materials obtained from sustainable crop production to produce plant cosmetics, supporting responsible agriculture and protecting biodiversity.

In a recently published invention, an interesting solution to the trend of personalized cosmetics is disclosed in the international application WO2022124689A1, which involves a method for providing a personalized eco-cosmetics set compatible with the ingredients and skin type of the consumer. The method includes several steps, the first step of which is to input the consumer's information and the data required for the skin condition, which is evaluated by the skin diagnostic software, which determines the skin type, possible allergies or sensitization factors for a specific skin type; the second step is to calculate the ingredients of the cosmetics according to the ecology, and the last step is to produce a set of cosmetics on this basis. According to the patent application, the product obtained in this way will be tailored to the needs of the consumer, provide effective skin care, and is also a vegetarian product that is not tested on animals.

Another newly developed cosmetic composition will be suitable for a wide range of consumer groups and feature unique and non-obvious compositions. For example, cosmetics enriched with cannabidiol (CBD) are becoming increasingly popular due to its anti-inflammatory, analgesic and anti-allergic properties, with potential health benefits for the skin and hair. Many companies focus on different cosmetic formulations containing CBD and adjust the dosage according to different consumer needs. Moisturizing creams enriched with CBD are well known to help maintain skin hydration and relieve irritation and inflammation. They are particularly effective for people with dry or sensitive skin. On the other hand, CBD lip balm can help soothe chapped lips and protect them from harmful external factors, such as sunlight and wind. To this end, German company BIONORICA has developed a cosmetic ingredient containing cannabidiol and ginger extract for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. The composition according to international application WO2023046730A1 combines the positive effects of CBD and ginger extract, containing the lowest possible concentration of CBD, with anti-inflammatory and antipruritic effects. In addition, the WO2020097766A1 international patent applied by Beijing Hanyi Biotechnology Co., Ltd. focuses on the use of CBD to treat scars, especially hyperplastic, superficial, atrophic, scars, contractures or depressed scars, with an emphasis on the treatment of acne scars. Its European application EP3711752 A1 even proposed the use of cannabidiol in a cosmetic skin whitening method, using cannabidiol or cannabis leaf extract to effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, thereby inhibiting the synthesis of melanin, and thus having particularly good skin whitening properties.

The growing demand for anti-aging cosmetics as the population ages and the desire to have firm, wrinkle-free skin, especially without the use of a scalpel, will continue to keep anti-aging cosmetics at the forefront of the beauty market. In their research into this category of cosmetics, cosmetic companies are mainly focusing on eliminating environmental factors that accelerate skin aging, such as UV radiation, combating oxygen free radicals or skin dryness to delay the skin aging process itself, and preventive measures to accelerate biosynthesis and inhibit collagen breakdown, while accelerating the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

At present, the most representative and functional ingredients for reducing wrinkles and improving skin elasticity are vitamin C and its derivatives, such as retinoids, which have strong anti-aging and anti-acne effects, but unfortunately, due to their acidity and low stability, they can cause severe irritation to the skin, which determines that their use is limited. Retinoids include retinol, retinol palmitate and similar substances, which have relatively small irritation effects themselves, but when exposed to light, they will denature and show phototoxicity problems that cause skin irritation. For this reason, NEOPHARM has developed an anti-aging ingredient that is highly stable and safe for the body. The ingredients of EP3431082 B1 effectively reduce the visibility of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity with their unique ability to stimulate collagen biosynthesis. Another patent application CN115444928A of Beijing North American Anti-Aging Medical Research Institute is an anti-aging cosmetic containing active peptides such as plant SOD, small sesame peptides, collagen peptides, probiotic active peptides, hyaluronic acid, natural cordyceps powder, ganoderma lucidum extract, and cosmetic matrices such as masks or topical essences, lotions or creams.

In addition, some manufacturers are launching natural anti-aging products that provide a younger, firmer skin effect. An interesting solution is disclosed in the invention patent EP3687632B1, which involves the use of clove meristems in anti-aging cosmetics. A cosmetic composition containing at least 5 wt % of meristem extract from cloves, based on the total weight of the composition, has a protective, firming and smoothing effect, while preventing skin sagging by regenerating the skin and improving its biomechanical properties.

In addition, in order to protect the skin from the harmful effects of environmental pollutants such as smog, dust, cigarette smoke, etc., especially in cities and regions with increased air pollution, more and more companies are designing anti-pollution cosmetics that, if used regularly, can help maintain healthy and youthful skin and prevent premature skin aging. In the published patent application US5571503A, the cosmetic composition includes water and an emulsified and water-dispersible anti-pollution complex including propylene glycol, hydrolyzed wheat protein, mannitol, glycogen, yeast extract, ginseng extract, bodhi tree extract, calcium pantothenate, chestnut extract and biotin, and further includes a micellar complex of phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, panthenol, cholesterol, hawthorn extract and sodium hyaluronate, as well as an anti-free radical complex and a sunscreen.

The market for men’s cosmetics is also booming, and as more men begin to pay attention to their skin and appearance, men’s cosmetics are designed specifically for the needs and preferences of male skin.

The cosmetics industry is moving towards environmental sustainability in both packaging and ingredients. Consumers are particularly concerned about the fact that the ingredients of cosmetics are as natural as possible, even at the expense of shelf life or the need to keep the cosmetics in the refrigerator. What's more, they want products to be personalized, that is, tailored to the needs of the individual. In recent years, modern skin analysis systems based on artificial intelligence (AI) have been developed, which use advanced algorithms and visual technology to evaluate skin conditions, identify skin problems, and recommend appropriate cosmetics or skin care solutions. To do this, AI systems use skin images or scans to measure skin parameters such as moisture levels, elasticity, texture, and pH. By providing consumers with knowledge about the condition of their skin, the technology can monitor the progress of skin treatment or care and can provide recommendations for selected cosmetics or treatments to help solve skin problems.

Consumers are also becoming more and more aware of their overall attitude towards their bodies. It is not only what we eat and what physical activities we do that are important, but also the ingredients we put on our bodies when taking care of our skin or applying makeup. Consumers are increasingly unwilling to compromise their healthy lifestyles by using low-quality cosmetics containing harmful chemicals. As a result, more and more consumers are looking for cosmetics with simple ingredients obtained in a more sustainable way, botanical cosmetics or cosmetics based on biotechnology. We expect that in 2024, AI skin analysis technology will develop further, making it more accurate and advanced. In addition, there will be an increase in patent activity for personalized products based on skin condition analysis or genetic testing applications, as well as an increase in interest in natural medicines and their use in the production of botanical cosmetics.